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Parts Overview

I don't want to scare you. I just want to be up front and honest. There are a lot of parts that are required to do this swap. It may be cheaper and easier to sell your automatic car and purchase a car with a manual transmission.

I'm sure there will be parts that I can't remember so this list will be 90% at best. It would help a lot if you are able to gather all the parts yourself off a car at a junkyard or if you score a good deal on a parts car. This way you can see how everything goes together and you will have all the clips and bolts that are necessary for this swap.

You will also be referring to this page fairly often.

If you are set on converting what you have, please read on.

Parts in the Engine Bay

You will need to gather quite a few items that will be bolted up under the hood. Let's see what all I can remember that you will need. Hopefully 420aSebring will chime in or Chamuko and help make this a complete listing.

Transmission Parts and Motor Mounts

1x Rear Motor Mount
1x Rear Motor Mount Roll Stopper
1x Manual Transmission
1x Transmission Top Mount Plate

Clutch Release System

Here you will find out some information about what parts you will need for the clutch system. Specifically the Master Cylinder and additional hardware.

Here you will find even more parts that you will need for the clutch system. This page pertains to the slave cylinder as well as the throwout bearing and associated hardware.

1x Master Cylinder
1x Slave Cylinder
1x Hard line from the Master Cylinder to underneath the ECU₁
1x Hard line from the Slave Cylinder to the Transmission Case₁
1x Flex line to connect the two hard lines₁
1x Bracket to hold Flex line and Hard line to the body
1x Clutch Fork

Clutch Setup

There are two different clutch setups that you can choose from. You can choose to either use a modular or non-modular clutch setup.

Modular Clutch

With the modular clutch setup you will be using the flex plate that your torque converter bolted to. The benefit of this clutch setup is the ease to install the transmission in a tight area by yourself. The stock modular clutch setup includes a flywheel and pressure plate that are riveted together. The clutch is sandwiched between the two and cannot be replaced separately.

This is easy to install because you slide the clutch kit over the input shaft on the transmission and then bolt the transmission up. After the transmission is bolted up you then bolt the clutch kit to the stock flexplate.

Non-Modular Clutch

With the non-modular clutch setup you will need to source a flywheel from a 1995 Dodge Neon and a clutch kit for the 1995 Neon. You will also need the flywheel to crank bolts and the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. The six bolts that bolt the flywheel to pressure plate are M8 1.25 x 17. The 8 for the flywheel to crank are M10 1.0 x 25. Thanks to Juggalo for this information about the bolt sizes. I would try and get these in a class 12.9. The pressure plate to flywheel bolts are about $1.25/bolt from the local Dodge dealer and the flywheel to crank bolts were about $6/bolt. I managed to get them for about $.15/bolt from Industrial Screw & Supply in Baton Rouge.

This setup will allow for a much more flexible clutch setup. You can check out something that Mark did. This is an Audi pressure plate, Neon flywheel and another clutch disc that he found. You can check out this mod here if you would rather make your own modular setup instead of using a Neon one.

Modular Clutch Setup

1x Clutch Kit

Non-Modular Clutch Setup

1x Neon Flywheel
1x Pressure Plate
1x Clutch

Non-Modular vs. Modular Setups

If you are confused about what a modular or non modular clutch setup is, do not feel like you are the only one. I had no idea what was going on until I started this swap. That's why people like bulletdsm do Wikis explaining stuff. You can check out what he wrote here.


Now this is a part where I'm going to suggest that you get the entire pedal assembly out of the car. I do have the appropriate CAPS page. You can find it here. You will need at least the entire clutch pedal assembly. This includes the pin that runs through the lever on the back of the master cylinder, the bolts that hold the pedal under the dash, the spring return and everything else that you see tied together.

For the brake pedal I have a feeling that you will be able to use the automatic brake pedal if you cut off half the pedal (this would be on the clutch side, not the accelerator side). I haven't tried this method as I was able to pick up both pedals and a host of other items from a 2gnt member at a reasonable price. I would definitely check out the Marketplace Forum for someone selling off the pedals or possibly parting out a car.

Shift Linkage

We are almost finished in our quest to gather parts for this swap. Well, I think that we are almost finished gather parts. So let's check this portion of the CAPS database out. As you can see, there are a lot of parts here to gather. Thankfully, it is much easier done than it looks.

Most of the parts that you see are what you get whenever you completely pull the shifter apart. You will need the entire shifter assembly. All of it. Most importantly, make sure you get the C-clips. You probably will not have enough of these. You need a total of four and on the auto shifter assembly there are three. One of which is smaller than the other two.

After you get your shifter assembly out of the donor car, make sure that you grab the shifter cables. While you are retrieving shifter cables, please retrieve PNC 23901 from here. This bracket is vital as you will not be able to shift without it. It cost about $20 at Satan for the whole bracket if you are unable to locate one.

The shifter cable bracket off a Neon
will not work
. Trust me. I know from experience. This wound up keeping my car down another week while I waited on the dealership to get the part in.

So I think that this is everything. I'll go over some other write-ups and look over the CAPS stuff to see if I missed anything.


₁If you buy the stainless steel braided line from RRE you only need the hard line from the master cylinder to just underneath the ECU.

Guys, if I forget to credit you I am sorry. I'm trying to make sure that all credit is given where it is due. If you would like to add something or make a notation where I missed something, please feel free to do so.

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Document statistics: Last modified on 2008-10-12 02:36:40 by freelancefool

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