16G Turbo Rebuild
This page details the full rebuild of a Mitsubishi Super 16G from Hahn Racecraft. The procedure should be very similar for other "G" series turbos. You can do the rebuild yourself if you just want to freshen up an old turbo. If your turbo has undergone some sort of trauma, you should definitely consider a professional rebuild and balance. Thats better than spending money and time on a home rebuild kit, having the turbo fail again, and then paying for a professional rebuild and balance.
"Long" rebuild kit from Hahn Racecraft (or similar)
Clean motor oil
Large internal snap ring pliers with 90 degree bend
10 mm wrench and socket
12 mm socket
Large Channel-lock pliers
chunk of 2x4" wood
medium size clamp
Remove turbo from vehicle. I won't go into details here as this page is meant to apply to several different vehicles.
Bend and remove wastegate (WG) actuator pin. Push actuator arm out of WG lever. Unbolt the actuator bolts with a 12 mm socket and remove the actuator.
Unbolt 10 mm bolts from oil drain and remove oil drain. Carefully scrape the old gasket off if necessary.
Mark a point right at the joint between the center section and compressor housing. This will help you align the compessor housing when you reinstall everything. Set the turbo on its compressor inlet. Use the large snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring holding the compressor housing to the center section. This can be a pain if the ring keeps slipping off the pliers. You can take a small file and knick the inside of the pliers tips to grip the ring better. With the ring removed, the compressor housing can be removed from the center section. Hold the center section and carefully tap the compressor housing off with a small hammer. Be careful not to knick the compressor fins when the housing comes off.
Remove the clamp that holds the exhaust housing to the center section. You will need a 10 mm socket to remove the nut. Mark a point right where the center section and exhaust housing meet. This will help you align everything later. Now hold the center section and tap the exhaust housing off with a small hammer. Tap all the way around to evenly remove it. You may have to hit it pretty hard as it can rust together some.
Mark a point where the compressor meets the shaft. Do this so you can put the compressor back in the exact same place during re-assembly. This ensures that the unit will still be balanced when you re-assemble. Clamp the center section to a work table with a 2x4 wood spacer under it. Grab the end of the turbine shaft with channel-lock pliers. Put a 10 mm wrench on the shaft nut. This is a left-hand nut, so you have to turn it opposite from a normal nut/bolt. Remove the nut and compressor.
Use the snap ring pliers to remove the internal snap ring from the center section. Pry out the bearing plate from the center section.
Here is the breakdown of parts you need to remove. You have already removed the compressor nut, compressor, and bearing plate. Now pry off the half-moon shaped plate under the bearing plate. Pull out the shaft spacer under that. Pull out the compressor side bearing. Hold the center section and tap the shaft out the bottom. The turbine side bearing should come out now. Pull off that metal cup that was under the turbine.
Examine the shaft for any damage or wear. Discoloration is not unusual. There should be no grooves or dips in the shaft. Now pry the ring off of the shaft right next to the turbine. Replace it with the new ring (49170-23100). Don't stretch it any more that needed to slip it over the ridge on the shaft. It is brittle and will break. Now install the new turbine side bearing (49178-21400) with clean oil. Install the new metal cup (49168-18900) onto the center section. Install the shaft into the center section with clean oil. Install the compressor side bearing (49178-21400) into the center section with clean oil. Install the shaft spacer (49178-42300) on top of the bearing with clean oil. Install the half-moon plate (49178-21600) on top of the spacer with clean oil. Notice the locating pin and matching hole in the plate.
Push the thrust sleeve (49178-42100) through the oil deflector (49168-22201) with clean oil. Slip the ring (49178-23100) onto the thrust sleeve with clean oil. We're calling this assembly 1.
Carefully push assembly 1 into the bearing plate (49178-22510) with clean oil. Be careful to push it in straight and don't let the ring get caught. We're calling this assembly 2.
Remove the internal O-ring from the center section. You may need to use a pin or razor blade to grab the O-ring and pull it out. Install the new O-ring (49168-22100) with clean oil. Install assembly 2 with clean oil. Now install the new snap ring (49168-23201) and make sure it seats properly. slide compressor wheel on the shaft and loosely put the new shaft nut on (49178-42210). Clamp the center section down as before. I put a little low-strength lock-tite on the shaft to hold the nut on. Now hold the turbine shaft end and tighten the compressor nut. Make it tight (remember how hard it was to remove) but be sure not to strip the threads. Use a pin or razor to remove the external O-ring from the center section. Install the new O-ring (F3153-10000) with clean oil.
Give the inside of the compressor housing a light coat of clean oil (where it will meet the center section). Slide the compressor housing back onto the center section making note of the alignment mark you made earlier. Reinstall that large snap ring. Make sure it seats properly. Now place the compressor inlet side down onto a work table and push the exhaust housing onto the center section making note of the alignment mark you made earlier. Put the clamp on with the new bolt and nut (49170-14020 and 49170-14010). Alternately tighten the clamp and tap the exhaust housing down onto the center section. Keep tapping and tightening until the clamp bolt no longer loosens after tapping. Install the oil drain gasket (34336-04100) and bolt up the oil drain with 10 mm bolts.
Bolt the WG actuator to the compressor housing. Push the actuator arm onto the WG lever and insert the cotter pin. Bend the end of the cotter pin to keep it from slipping out. Now the turbo should be fully assembled. Notice that I painted the compressor housing with high-temp gloss paint while it was removed. Reinstall the turbo on the car and take it for a test drive. I suggest you drive for 30 miles or so breaking everything in (no boosting). After that, I wouldn't be too worried about driving how you like.
Contributed by Corbin
Cars Modifications Power Turbo 16G Turbo Rebuild
Last modified on 2008-12-19 20:21:50