Fuel Return Set Up
96+ 2GNT FUEL REURN LINE SET UP
There are some basic instructions on how to set up a fuel supply and return system using Stailess Steel threaded fuel hose.
Keep in mind that this is based on my intallation of the system on a 97 gs. for some of the earlier year models some things may differ.
THIS SET UP IS WITH #4 HOSE, YOU MAY USE #6 HOSE AND THEN THE REDUCERS WILL NOT HAVE TO BE PURCHASED TO CONECT THE HOSE TO THE SFMU.
-10 feet of #4 S/S fuel hose
-2 Feet of #4 S/S fuel hose cut in half.(optional if you wish to put a fuel press sensor there, lenght will -ary depending on where sfmu is mounted. this is explained below)
-5 -4AN hose end fittings
-1 -4AN union Tee
-3 feet of regular fuel hose (or S/S fuel hose.. i just forgot to get a little extra)
-Universal Fuel filter (about $8) make sure it is for fuel injection systems!!
-6 hose clamps this will give you an extra one just in case :)
-2 -6AN (female) to -4AN (Male) reducer.
-Before working with the fuel system you must depresurise it. You will acomplish this by removing the fuel cap and letting some pressure out this way.
Then take off rear seat (by pulling on the poins on the front). open the fuel pump access and unplug the ruel pump relay.
Crank the car and let it idle until it dies from fuel starvation.
-remove the return line (this is the one that is clamped using a hose clamp)
-Unfasten the fuel supply line. BE CAREFUL only twist the fitting on the right side, making sure not to bend or crack the solid line going into the tank. If you break it you will have to buy a whole new piece.
-ONce those two lines are removed, jack the car up (always remeber to use jack stands when working under the car) and under the car by the passenger side rear wheel you will see the stock FPR and Fuel filter. Remove this whole assembly by unbolting the two screws holding it to the frame and then by unbolting the fuel supply hard line. Again the fuel line bolt is the one that turns. Careful not to break the line you will use it later.
-Take the 3 feet of regular fuel hose hose and run it from the supply line to the solid fuel line under the car. YOu must cut this hose in half and place the fuel filter in line. Attach all ends with hose clamps.
-take the 2 feet of #4 s/s fuel hose and put the end fittings on it. (4 ends if you cut the hose in half to add the pressure sensor in between.
-the test port on the fuel rail is -4AN screw on one #4 hose to it, make sure it is nice and tight (BE CAREFUL NOT TO BEND THE TEST PORT OR IT WILL CRACK AND YOU WILL NEED A NEW RAIL)
-Take the -4AN union Tee and screw it to the other end of the hose. attach the other hose to one of the other ends of the union Tee. screw in the Reducer (-6AN to -4AN) onto the hose and attach to the side port of the SFMU.
-The extra slack from the s/s hose from the fuel rail will let you place the sfmu in a secure place. (I REMOVED THE WASHER FLUID RESERVOIR AND MOUNTED THE SFMU THERE, YOU MAY CHOOSE TO GET MORE OR LESS HOSE DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU CHOOSE TO MOUNT YOUR SFMU)
-Install the ends on the 10 foot s/s return hose. Attach the second reducer (-6AN to -4AN) to one end of the hose and screw onto the bottom port of the SFMU
-NOW, YOU CAN RUN THE HOSE ALL THE WAY BACK AND ZIP TIE IT TO THE SOLID RETURN LINE IN THE TANK WITH A HOSE CLAMP OR 2. YOU MAY ALSO PURCHASE ANOTER HOSE END FITTING AND A -4an HOSE BARB. AND USE A SMALL AMMOUNT OF REGULAR FUEL HOSE FROM THE BARB TO THE SOLID RETURN LINE IN THE TANK. (THIS CHOICE IS IF YOU FEEL THAT YOU ARE NOT ABLE TO SQUEEZE THE S/S HOSE TIGHTLY WITH A HOSE CLAMP AROUND THE SOLID RETURN LINE.)
-connect the fuel pump relay back on and seal the access hole. put seat back in and you are set to go!
Before installing all the lines on the car you might want to check the end fittings and any other joints for leaks. One way you can do this is by running compressed air through the hose with the joints in water to see if any bubbles appear.
written by WhoDatt