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Clutch Restrictor Removal


If you have ever bled your brake system and can turn a wrench then you can do this mod...This very simple mod allows for the clutch to engage/disengage much faster which allows for faster more crisp shifts. With this mod I immediately noticed a better engaging, quicker shift. I can now chirp 3rd gear! It is well worth the 30 min it takes to complete it.


Tools you will need:

-Jack

-Metric sockets

-Bottle of brake cleaner

-Open-ended metric wrenches

-Rags and something to catch the brake fluid in

-Small Magnet (3/16ths or smaller and 1" long) or very fine needle nose pliers
or a long needle

-Small bottle of new DOT 4 brake fluid (Non silicon preferred)


-A brake bleeder kit (A good one I use was $7 at Pep Boys)


-Take the clutch reservoir cap off...be sure it is CLEAN! No dirt should be anywhere near this!



-After everything has cooled down get under your car (it can be done from the top but it is much harder) and locate the clutch slave release cylinder (What are 1 & 2, it is the only thing sticking out from the front of the tranny)...it is located right above the main chassis brace that runs under the engine)



-Make sure there is something underneath the slave cylinder to catch the fluid. Loosen the bleeder screw (1)and let the clutch fluid dribble out until it stops or slows down.


-Remove the nut & the copper washer that has the hydraulic line coming out of it(2). (when you do this it is extremely important to make sure you do not contaminate the the bolt or the slave release cylinder with dirt...


-After you remove the nut, move the hard line out of the way and look inside the hole. There you will see the restricter plate (see #1 below). Notice the very small restrictor plate hole? All your fluid has to pass through this thus making the clutch react much slower. Inset the magnet or pliers or needle and pull it out (It looks like #2 below, this thing is small, #3, and you definitely want to keep it just in case you need it someday.)...(the magnet is best...this thing is steel so it sticks)



1. 2.
3.


-Put everything back together being very careful not to get any dirt any where. (Esp. on the copper washer surface, if you don't the assembly will leak under high pressure and and you will blow fluid all over the place and be stricken with panic because your clutch wont work!) It is a good idea to spray everything off with the brake cleaner before you tighten everything back up...this assures everything is clean.


-Proceed to bleed the clutch system. Use the DOT 4 fluid (Mitsu recommends DOT 3), it will give the clutch pedal a firmer feel. Over all DOT 4 is better...just trust me on that. When you think all the air and old DOT 3 fluid is out then tighten up the bleeder nut screw and pump the clutch a few times to make sure there are no leaks.


-Take it for a test spin...if the pedal does not feel noticeably firmer or engage properly then go back and bleed the system some more.


-That's it! Happy driving!


-If you have any questions or input to the content of this page please e-mail me. Drive it like you stole it!



Note:
Some replacement slave cylinders from auto parts stores (such as Napa) have been known to come without the restrictor.


Transmission


Document statistics: Last modified on 2006-08-08 18:46:57 by DR1665


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